The Big Freeze: Winter 1962/63 by John Swash

What were the two worst winters on record? Some might say Mike and Bernie, but the more serious answer is 1947 and 1962/63 when it froze continuously from Xmas to March.

Sixty years ago the UK was in the grip of a brutal winter. Anyone who, like me, is old enough to have lived through the "big freeze" of winter 1962/63 will certainly remember it. Either it was the worst winter in living memory or the last truly great winter of our time depending on whether you were the right age to enjoy it or endure it.

“In winter 1963, it felt like the world would freeze” - lyrics from ‘Life in a Northern Town’ 1963, written during the Big Freeze, by Dream Academy.

Click here for a Met office account of the winters of 1947 & 1963

The Big Freeze took hold just as Lawrence of Arabia played in the nation's cinemas.
Cold weather reached the UK on 22 December 1962. Snow fell across Scotland on Christmas Eve before sweeping south. Central England experienced its coldest winter since 1740. Rivers, lakes, and even in places the sea, froze over. The conditions made for surreal scenes - people skating in front of Buckingham Palace, a man cycling on the Thames near Windsor Bridge, a milkman doing his deliveries on skis.

The Arctic weather didn't abate until March 1963. For 62 consecutive days snow lay on the ground in the south of England. The next highest number of snow lying days since then is a mere 10 in 1987.The country was heavily disrupted during the Big Freeze. By the New Year the snowdrifts were up to 20ft deep. Troops were used in many areas to open roads and rescue the stranded, but as night fell on the last day of 1962, almost the whole of Britain was covered by snow.

On 31 December 1962 the Times reported: "Roads were impassable at hundreds of points, many towns and villages were cut off, railways were out of action at many places or struggling against long delays on other sections, and the airports were unusable till late in the day ."The snow was so deep farmers couldn't get to their livestock, and many animals starved to death
but the country was not totally crippled. Snow ploughs were deployed and the trains - mostly steam engines - got through.
Vegetable prices shot up by as much as 30% as crops froze in the ground but society continued to function despite the fact that average temperatures remained below freezing for two months.

The start of the big freeze: The cold front that brought the arctic winds & snow to England on 26 Dec 1962.
TRAVEL CHAOS

To the bewilderment of our continental neighbours, even a light fall of snow in England tends to bring the country to a standstill. With delays and cancellations on the railways, chaos on the roads, power cuts and rural communities being cut -off, simply travelling to and from work in the cold and dark becomes a miserable experience for the working population.

"The winter of 1962/63 was a real shocker. Snow & ice lasted for months. I travelled to and from work on a motorbike and got frozen despite protective clothing. The alternative was to freeze at bus stops. The pain on the bike was worse but didn't last as long. The additional "bonus" of the cold weather was sulphurous fog caused by the low temperatures plus all the extra coal being burnt. Not many places were centrally heated then. Traffic followed me in the fog in the belief that my vision was better than theirs. What they didn't know was that my glasses had frozen over, so I took 'em off. My vision was marginally better without them".

Today some headteachers opt for school closure at the first sign of a snowflake. It wasn't the case back in the 1960s. During the Big Freeze it was common for children to walk or sledge to school. Today, there is far more reliance on the car.

"Despite the chaos on the roads, it is my recollection the school never closed and the school buses continued running. I think we may have been allowed to leave school early a couple of times on account of heavy snowfall or fog. I now suspect that this was more for the benefit of the teachers who drove in from leafy villages on the outskirts of Leeds, such as Little Joe, commuting in his Rover from Bardsey (or East Keswick)."

Even a little snow on the roads has the potential to make them treacherous to drivers. I remember our chemistry teacher, who drove to school in a Triumph Vitesse, uncharacteristically complaining to the class one morning about the idiots who didn't know how to drive in these icy conditions, by using a higher gear than normal, steering into a skid, and gentle dabbing of the brakes to stop. (Driving tips I remembered and used in later life).
On one occasion, I remember there was snow and ice on the road so that coming down Kirkstall Hill on a bus was a nerve-wracking experience, especially from the front seats on the top deck, wondering whether the bus would manage to pull up at the junction at the bottom of the hill or not.
I mentioned this on a website many years later and a retired LCT driver replied:

"Front seats on the top deck"?? - I can promise you it was a lot MORE nerve-wracking from the front seat on the bottom deck - i.e., in the driver's cab!! - If you think it's pretty hairy do what I do, shut your eyes and pray"

Another hill which looked horrendous in the snow, and caught car drivers out, was Hilltop at Whingate. This was on my school run but I never remember having to walk because the bus service was cancelled due to bad weather - even in the long snowy winter of 1963. I did see a bus skid sideways on this hill but stopped skidding when the rear wheels hit the kerb. Hats off to the LCT bus drivers, for driving a half-cab bus in conditions like this. How did they keep it from going sideways with only rear-wheel drive, and presumably on ordinary tyres? Were LCT drivers trained on a skid pan?

"Well in short, we didn't stop them sliding - but by keeping in low gears and only breathing on the brakes, when necessary, we hoped to "aim" the bus towards a safe gap. I think that skid pans were London Transport speciality lesser mortals were left to "play it by ear" or whatever. Cockshott Lane was another brute, and in extremely bad times was abandoned in favour of the easier Armley Ridge Road - that's why you still see a group of disgruntled frozen folks at the top of Cockshott Lane waiting for the bus"

That never-ending winter may have been a miserable experience for the working population but if you are a teenage schoolboy, as I was in 1963, you see things differently. The snowfall transformed the familiar drab environment of West Leeds suburbs into a sparkling winter wonderland with all the ugly imperfections wiped out and presented lots of opportunity for fun and games. For our parents, it was "no fun" at all but for us it was "snow fun"!

SNOW FUN

Building igloos and snow forts.
I remember the fun we had in the snow, building great forts and igloos, stocking them with pre-made snowballs and inviting passers-by to attack us. We developed a great way of building by casting snow blocks out of cardboard cartons. That way we could build a snow fortress in no time.

One evening that winter I was walking home from school near Bramley Town End when I saw an LCT bus driving towards me. The snow was perfect for making snowballs and I couldn't resist the moving target. I hurled a newly formed snowball at the front of the bus hitting the top deck front windows. My marksmanship was witnessed by a policeman, walking towards me, who took my name in his notebook and warned me against "discharging a missile". I thought this was a funny choice of words because it was only a few months after the Cuban missile crisis. I have not discharged any missiles since -Honest!

On one occasion we were snowballing after dark on a piece of waste ground where a street joined Stanningley Road at a fork. There was a small incline at the intersection and lots of cars got stuck there. One car which was a large 1950s saloon similar to the ones used in TV police dramas, a Humber or a Riley maybe, got stuck and the driver asked us to give the car a push which we did and got him up the incline and he rewarded us generously with half a crown apiece.A kings ransome in 1963 or weeks pocket money at least.
Sledging
We were brought up on stories of Antarctic exploration so the snow gave us the opportunity to share some of the experiences of our polar heroes, Scott & Shackleton. Our toboggans/sledges would emerge from cellars and garden huts for us to experience the sensation of sliding down the nearest slope. Every neighbourhood had its favourite sledging hill. In 1963 mine was in Bramley Park. I painted the name "Fireball XL5" on my sledge in red after the spaceship in a TV program.
"Don't remember exactly which year it was, maybe '62 or '63, but it was a cracking winter and I went sledging with my dad on Sugarwell Hill. The sledge was decidedly dodgy and we were going faster and faster with precious little control, so in order to avoid killing any other fellow sledgers my dad just managed to steer the sledge down a farmyard and we were finally brought to an abrupt halt by shooting up the side of a great muckheap. My mum was none too pleased because apart from us both being soaking wet, we stunk disgusting, Oh happy days!"
Snow clearing
Clearing the pavements of snow used to be an accepted custom and practice in the Leeds of my youth. We, kids, used to be told by our parents to clear the paths for older neighbours as well as the frontage of our own houses. If we were lucky there might be a few pennies at the end of it to spend on sweets but if not, it didn't matter- it was just something we were expected to do for neighbours who were too old or ill to do it themselves. I know from an acquaintance who lived in Germany that not only is it a legal requirement to clear snow outside your house but there is a time limit to do it. Any thoughts of backsliding on this civic duty went out of the window when they realised, they lived opposite the local mayor.
SCHOOL MEMORIES- The winter fun didn't stop at the school gates.

The ice slide
My abiding memory of school in the winter of '63 was he ever-lengthening slide in the schoolyard. On frosty days, when there was snow that had melted and frozen, we made ice slides. This was magical and well worth getting to school early so that we could start polishing the ice by sliding on a set strip. With continual use, we created high-speed slides that allowed trains of children to hurtle down the ice, wearing out the soles of our shoes. There was great excitement and squeals of joy, as coat flapping, scarf trailing, adventure seeking kids produced a constant stream of exhilaration. Occasionally someone would come a cropper, but that resulted in a pileup of bodies, and even greater pleasure, unless you were the one at the bottom of the pile..
One sign of the length of the cold spell in 62/63 was the ice slide in the schoolyard at WLHS which grew longer and longer each week until it reached a length of about 30ft. We used to taunt passing teachers to have a go on it, but they all refused except for a young trainee teacher who made a very reasonable effort. The ecstasy of balancing, togged up in scarf and hat, running pell-mell and then gliding, arms akimbo, has stayed with me all my life. I don't know if it is still allowed in school for "elf and safety" reasons but it was such a wonderful experience.

Snowballing the teachers at lunchtime.
At that time school dinners were served in 2 sittings, probably because the school dinner hall could not accommodate all of us baby boomers. One day after a fairly fresh snowfall a large number of us were standing around in the yard opposite the dinner hut /refectory waiting for the second sitting. There was some sporadic snowballing and it looked as though we were splitting into two groups for a mammoth snowball fight. Anticipating this a number of us were standing behind the low wall between the yard and the playing field each of us making a pile of snowballs, stacked up like cannonballs, on the handily placed wall in anticipation of the coming battle.
Then the dinner hall/refectory doors opened and a target of opportunity appeared that none of us could resist. It was a group of teachers who had finished their meal and were leaving the dining hut. What followed was like a re-enactment of the battle of Agincourt with us hurling snowballs instead of arrows and the teachers as the French knights shielded only by their umbrellas. The air was thick with flying snowballs all aimed at the teachers and a lot of them hit their target. I have a vivid image of Chunky Watts shielding himself and 2 other teachers cowering behind his black umbrella, which collapsed under the weight of incoming snowballs. The whole thing was over in about 2 minutes with the teachers fleeing the field of battle. I expected repercussions but the teachers involved must have had a sense of humour because there was no mention of it by the Headmaster in the assembly the next day.

Keeping Warm
Our mothers used to tell us to wrap up warm or you'll catch your death of cold. By God were we wrapped up! In winter 1962/3 I would set off for school wearing an Aertex string vest, my cotton school shirt and tie, a long sleeve V-necked wool jersey, my school blazer and a gabardine raincoat or a duffel coat. This would be topped off with the school cap, scarf and woolly gloves. My school trousers would be tucked into football socks and wellies. I make that 5 layers on the torso. Must have looked like the Michelin man. Not much chance of catching hypothermia in that lot, more chance of heatstroke! Bear in mind that I would be walking to school, 1.5 miles or half a mile if I caught the bus at Bramley Town End.
The school had cloakrooms which were little used but came into their own in winter. Our wet winter coats could be hung there to dry. I used to change into plimsolls and leave my wet wellies in the cloakroom.

The school was always warm even in the grip of winter like 1963, thanks to the massive cast iron radiators and the boiler in the cellar which had been installed in 1907. One harbinger of winter was a large lorry load of coke* delivered to the schoolyard. This used to disappear into the boiler room, presumably down a coal chute. Now I never gave much thought to this but somebody, presumably Mr Sellars the caretaker, must have stoked that boiler. The boiler room must have resembled the boiler room in the Titanic with stokers slaving away to keep the fires burning.
A few years later, my 6th form classmate (Roger B) came to grief when the day the coke pile was delivered it was also very foggy and he crashed his new Lambretta scooter into the black pile. I understand Mr Sellars was very helpful to him after the accident.

By 6 March, there was no frost anywhere in the British Isles and the temperature in London reached a balmy 17 °C - the highest since October 1962. Finally, England and Wales's coldest winter for more than 200 years had ended. With the thaw came flooding, but nothing like the scale of the 1947 floods. Soon after, life returned to normal and we had survived!

Hang on a minute - There's a Woolly Mammoth in the Room!

Reading through this account of an extreme weather event in the past you may feel there is something missing. There is no mention of "global warming" or "climate change", as it is now known. Unthinkable these days when no weather forecast or travel programme is complete without an obligatory reference to climate change. From the 1940s to the the mid-70s the planet seemed to be in the grip of a global cooling phenomenon. For a while every outbreak of extreme weather was blamed on it. Some members of the new science of "climatology" were confidently predicting a new ice age. Yet before the 70's were out, temperatures were rising again and the soothsayers for a new ice age were now predicting global warming!

Footnotes:
Unfortunately I could find no photos of West Leeds in winter to illustrate this article. I used photos taken in and around Leeds. School photos are actually Harehills school, sledging at Roundhay Park and the snow fort in Wakefield. If you have any old photos of West leeds in winter I would be happy to include them.

* For clarification, in 1960's Leeds, coke consisted of large black lumps of carbon from a gasworks not to be confused with fine white powder from Columbia.